When an 8-foot swell hit Hawaii’s Oahu we tracked its movements in various directions and finally zeroed in on a remote atoll many, many miles from the densely populated line-ups of the famed North Shore.
Isolated, stinking hot and with limited entertainment other than breathing, there was really only one man we knew who could not only handle the pace (or lack thereof) and enjoy it.
Enter Malibu’s Dillon Perillo. Part vagabond, part bon vivant – he was only too happy to put himself on a solo journey into the furnace and find … well… nothing really!
“There’s only one flight in and out of here a week, and the fact that it’s so mysterious and unknown made me feel like I had to go.” There’s plenty of time and space in trips like that.
“It has this lagoon opening on the west side of the island and it looked promising and the trade winds were directly offshore. But the waves never seemed to happen the way we wanted them to happen. I don’t know why…”
After 8 days, and with the only flight for another week about to depart, we gave the last word to cinematographer Jon Frank, who has also been a Search stalwart for many years. “Pack your things into one suitcase. Just one suitcase. Work hard, grab some cash, buy a round the world ticket. Grab a board and go overseas and see it. And then if you get to paddle out into some pristine lineups, well, how good is that?”