FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE

“Technology and Travel” – the 2Ts – are akin to “Country and Western” – you simply can’t have one without the other. Or can you? Wandering into the various shades of real world blue, Gabriel Medina, Matt Wilkinson, Mason Ho and Bruno Santos pull-the-plug in the search for a simpler stoke.

Surf travel writer Daryl Davenport sums up the motivation…

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“That was an amazing session, that’s the bluest water I’ve ever seen. This is exactly how you want The Search to turn out,” Said Wilko.

With all of the evolutions in Technology and Travel that fly off the global interwebernet at us each day, it’s easy to do the ol’ wake up/pick up and look straight to the device in the palm of your hand and believe that’s all there is…

Humour me a little here and look at the palm of your empty hand. What do you see? Nothing? Look closely again and you will see a series of lines which will tell you a lot about your life. The life you only get one chance at…

  1. The heart-line runs horizontally across the top of the palm. It reflects the state of your heart on both the physical and emotional level. Surfing, we concur, is great for the heart and the well of emotion it beats to.
  2. The headline runs horizontally across the middle of the palm. It reflects the state of your mind and brain. Offshore winds, new worlds and waves, the sting of a hot beach in a foreign land are great stimuli for the mind. The brain, however, must be punished. It must be surfed into submission. To become “surfed out” to become so overloaded on stoke that it buzzes into bath-warm submission.
  3. The lifeline curves around the base of the thumb, starting between the index finger and thumb. Contrary to popular belief, this line does not actually indicate how long you will live but rather aspects such as strength, vitality, and prosperity. Three things you cannot enjoy while sitting on your arse looking at a screen.
  4. The fate-line runs vertically from the base of the palm up the middle of the palm (not everybody has this line). It indicates aspects such as success, career path, and vocation. Don’t wait for fate. Only your own actions determine it…
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There’s no left hand tube we have ever seen Bruno sketched out by. In fact, he won the Billabong Pro Tahiti as a wildcard in 2008 and he spends months on end in Indonesia getting shacked, but let’s not forget he can also carve out a hack with the best of em…

So like the modern device, your life (quite literally) appears to be in the palm of your hand.

Get ready to go. Then: make a pact with yourself and simply decide to have a good time. Say: “I will always go with the flow…” “I will stay polite and in good spirits…” “I’m lucky…” That way you will never be disappointed.

Can you (really) hear yourself complaining about a cancelled flight? Turning again to the palm of your hand and dipping into social media to complain ad nauseam because your bloody flight is delayed? I am sure some beyond skinny kid scouring a rubbish-dump in a godforsaken hellhole looking for enough discards to scrounge a meal for the day is not listening or looking at your dejected-airport-pouty-selfie.

Yes, I could be writing all of the above to you, dear reader, but even more so to pro surfers in general. More than any other occupation on Earth, theirs is the stuff of our dreams so their expectations can often be high when it comes to what’s real or unreal. And who else spends that much time racking up “Likes” and pushing out the days of their every breath to the rest of us? Surely only the Kardashiens…

Thankfully the guys on the surf trip you are about to see are well-adjusted humans, still up for The Search and keen to get away from it all. Even Medina with his 3,900,000 Instagram followers and clearly recognised as “The-man-most-likely-to- post” was keen to escape when he heard about the rarely surfed lefthander that might, if found, add to the depth and quality of the simple life lines written on the palm of his hand.

Afternoon clouds approach, but that only served to ratchet up Medina’s mood from cruisey to explosive…

“There are a lot of colours of blues here,” he said on arrival deep in the South Pacific, mesmerised by the ocean.

“Dark blue and light blue. Hey, what kind of blue is that, that’s beautiful I think,” engrossed.

“There are seven kinds of blue that I can see. And look at that shade! That’s the kind of blue I was looking for right there! Hey how’s that blue? Come here and look at that shit! There are 50 shades of blue in my eye!”

I mean you just can’t get that weird looking at life through a screen, right?

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The effort to get to this spot was pretty huge, long boats and dusty road rides, howling winds, uncertainty, but resident Rip Curl bon vivant Matt Wilkinson reckons it was worth it. “You could have been doing it tough for three weeks and today would have made it worth it…”




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