Ok so let’s just put something out there, you don’t have to technically be the best surfer to surf big waves, all you have to do is be able to paddle then stand up and hopefully negotiate a barrel if you get the chance, so why does it become such a hard and prestigious thing to do?
I know some guys who rip the back end out of it that just can’t pull it together when it starts getting hefty and I think the main reason for this is they see the fear. Mostly it’s the fear of the unknown, not wanting or putting themselves in the place for bigger surf or always having an option of surfing somewhere else slightly more sheltered.
The questions that burns away inside your brain, what will happen if I fall? How long will it hold me down for? What if I get caught inside?
When you get passed all these things and decide to take things head on it’s the wait, anticipation of a swell that might not even materialise, or even be that big! Yet when it does come you have to make sure you’re there and in the right mindset to take it on cause if you’re having a shocker when its big you’ll know about it, it’s not quite like having one at your local beachie.
It’s a pretty strange feeling trying to put yourself on a wave that could potentially rip you in half and make the rest of your years a misery, all your natural instincts and the sensible part of your brain is telling you NO! but you kind of have to put all these things to one side and get over it. I think the surfers who can get past this are the guys who make the best big wave surfers.
And of course you’ve got to have big balls (sorry Cotty)